Wiki source code of Polycarbonate Information Page
Version 1.1 by Eric Nantel on 2023/01/16 14:18
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6 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><strong>Polycarbonate Information Page<br> |
7 | <br> |
8 | Updated <!--webbot bot="Timestamp" startspan s-type="EDITED" s-format="%m/%d/%Y" -->07/30/2007<!--webbot bot="Timestamp" i-checksum="12528" |
9 | endspan --></strong></font> |
10 | <p><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Why Polycarbonate?<br> |
11 | </b>Some of our robots use Polycarbonate. Why, because it is very strong. The image to the right is of me trying really hard to bend one of the |
12 | H2 bottom panels. It really hurt holding this long enough for the camera to snap the image. When I let go it returned to its normal flat |
13 | shape, no worse for the wear. Now Polycarbonate is not indestructible, but it is very tough. A 1/8" thick x 1/4" wide strip can be |
14 | broken, but it takes several back and forth bends before it finally breaks. </font></p> |
15 | <p> </p> |
16 | </td> |
17 | <td align="center" valign="top " width="320"><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan01s.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
18 | <strong><font size="2" face="verdana">Will it Break? No!<br> |
19 | <br> |
20 | </font></strong></td> |
21 | </tr> |
22 | <tr> |
23 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Laser-cut Lexan properties</b> <br> |
24 | The cut edge has a black residue which can easily be cleaned with a damp rag or paper towel. It is normal and can't be helped. When the residue |
25 | is cleaned off, the edge will still be darker than the material. The dark edge is going to be present no matter what color the Lexan is. Most |
26 | people like the way the cut edge looks, but there are some who would prefer not to have the dark edge. Technically, it would be possible to try |
27 | to polish the edges, but beware it would be a very labor intensive project, and not worth the trouble in my opinion. <br> |
28 | <br> |
29 | <br> |
30 | </font></td> |
31 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan02.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
32 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 1.<br> |
33 | <br> |
34 | </font></td> |
35 | </tr> |
36 | <tr> |
37 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Lexan protective covering</b> <br> |
38 | The Lexan pieces have a protective covering that needs to be removed before assembly. When the laser cuts, the covering melts into the cut edge |
39 | which can make removal difficult. If you gently scrape the cut edge with a metal edge, such as a flat blade screw driver, the covering can |
40 | easily be separated with a thumb nail. </font></td> |
41 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan04.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
42 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 2.<br> |
43 | <br> |
44 | </font></td> |
45 | </tr> |
46 | <tr> |
47 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Peal and Separate</b><br> |
48 | Once it is started the covering easily peels off of the pieces. Note, you only want to scrape the edge. If done properly the pieces will not be |
49 | damaged at all. <br> |
50 | </font> |
51 | <p> </p> |
52 | </td> |
53 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan05.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
54 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 3.<br> |
55 | <br> |
56 | </font></td> |
57 | </tr> |
58 | <tr> |
59 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Stubborn Coverings</b><br> |
60 | From time to time the coverings can be more difficult to remove. If you have trouble you can gently scrape the cut edge as explained above, then |
61 | put a piece of Duct Tape over it, then rip it up. This really works pretty well. </font></td> |
62 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan09.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
63 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 4.<br> |
64 | <br> |
65 | </font></td> |
66 | </tr> |
67 | <tr> |
68 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>The Finish</b><br> |
69 | Lexan has a beautiful mirror smooth finish. However, in time it will get tiny surface scratches due to cleaning and normal wear and tear. It |
70 | isn't really that noticeable, but under the right conditions it can be visible. Note: this step is optional!</font> |
71 | <p><font size="2" face="verdana">There are some options for modifying the finish.</font></p> |
72 | <p><font size="2" face="verdana">The Lexan parts can be sand blasted with a fine medium. I especially like the look on the black |
73 | components. </font></p> |
74 | <p><font size="2" face="verdana">The parts can be lightly sanded by hand, or with a random orbit sander with extra fine sand paper. This is easy |
75 | to do, but should be done carefully to avoid removing too much material. The key is to make light even passes with the sander. </font></p> |
76 | <p><font size="2" face="verdana">The result is a durable charcoal gray appearance that can't be scratched, because it has been pre-scratched in |
77 | every direction.<br> |
78 | <br> |
79 | Lexan can also be painted, but use paint specifically designed for use with Polycarbonate. Your local hobby shop can help with this. There |
80 | has also been some new developments in the paint industry specifically for plastics. Check out Krylon Fusion. <br> |
81 | </font></p> |
82 | </td> |
83 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan03.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
84 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 5.<br> |
85 | <br> |
86 | </font></td> |
87 | </tr> |
88 | <tr> |
89 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana">Here is an image of our old Pan and Tilt with the random orbit finish.<br> |
90 | </font></td> |
91 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexinf06.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
92 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 6.<br> |
93 | </font></td> |
94 | </tr> |
95 | <tr> |
96 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Finishing the holes</b><br> |
97 | The holes in the panels just need a bit of a push and they just fall out. I am using a 3/32" ball end hex driver here. It works quite well |
98 | and it's required to build the kits anyway. <br> |
99 | </font></td> |
100 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan06.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
101 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 7.<br> |
102 | <br> |
103 | </font></td> |
104 | </tr> |
105 | <tr> |
106 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Separating the parts</b><br> |
107 | Some of the kits have parts nested to simplify packaging and reduce errors. Larger parts can be snapped apart. The smaller parts can be easily |
108 | separated with a hobby knife. Be careful! Use a large wood backer and work slowly. <br> |
109 | </font></td> |
110 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan07.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
111 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 8.<br> |
112 | <br> |
113 | </font></td> |
114 | </tr> |
115 | <tr> |
116 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Separating the optional openings</b><br> |
117 | Some of the kits have optional openings that need to be cut out before assembly. Carefully press a flat Exacto knife into the opening where the |
118 | part is attached to the main panel. <br> |
119 | <br> |
120 | Caution! Do not attempt to snap these optional openings apart. <br> |
121 | </font></td> |
122 | <td align="center" valign="top" ><img src="./Information on Polycarbonate_files/lexan08.jpg" border="2" hspace="10" width="320" height="240"><br> |
123 | <font size="2" face="verdana">Figure 9.<br> |
124 | <br> |
125 | </font></td> |
126 | </tr> |
127 | <tr> |
128 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Caution!</b><br> |
129 | Lexan is the same material used in bullet proof glass. It is very strong, but has one important weakness. In the presence of certain chemicals, |
130 | it will "craze". This means it will crystallize, become brittle, and even shatter. One substance in particular to watch out for is 1, |
131 | 1, 1 Trichloroethane. This is a solvent, present in some motor cleaners and degreasers, which will crystallize polycarbonate on contact. |
132 | Trichloroethane is a liquid CFC and has been removed from use, but may still be out there. Some products have switched to its cousin, 1, 1, |
133 | Difluoroethane. While not as vigorously reactive as the previous chemical, it is still capable of crazing Lexan if allowed to come into contact |
134 | for too long. Also avoid using Loctite or thread locks on the chassis assembly. They are not necessary and may cause damage to the Lexan.<br> |
135 | <br> |
136 | </font></td> |
137 | <td align="center" valign="top" ></td> |
138 | </tr> |
139 | <tr> |
140 | <td valign="top" ><font size="2" face="verdana"><b>Other Information</b><br> |
141 | Lexan is a bit on the expensive side compared to foam PVC and acrylic, but the added strength makes it well worth the added cost. It can be |
142 | drilled and cut easily using standard wood working tools. Use a low speed on the tool and low feed rates to prevent the plastic from melting to |
143 | the tool. Have fun building your robots, and above all be careful!<br> |
144 | </font></td> |
145 | <td align="center" valign="top" ></td> |
146 | </tr> |
147 | </tbody></table> |
148 | </body> |
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